2.      Dip rod in liquid flux and spread generously over area to be repaired.

3.      Using either a small butane torch or a hand-held propane torch turned down a bit, heat the entire repair area slowly and evenly (Or, you may heat the metal right next to or underneath the repair area. This will allow indirect heat transfer to take the rod off in hard to get at areas).

4.      Continue applying heat until flux begins to turn a root beer brown color.  ***If you heat until flux turns black--cool the part down, wire brush the blackened flux off, and start over.

5.      Once flux is root beer brown, let the rod gently touch the metal and work the tip of the rod with your flame.  Once the rod begins to flow, apply heat sparingly.  Bring the flame in for a couple of counts-then take it away for one count.  Bring it in, sweep it slowly through the repair area, and take it away.  You are simply adding heat as needed to keep the rod flowing.--Or, you may want to "tin" the metal first by gently rubbing the rod against the metal, leaving a thin silver sheen. This is all that is needed to fill a pin hole. Remember the rod must always be touching the metal (without pressing) as the heated metal is melting the rod.  You are not dripping the rod in from above.

6.     To build up the deposit for machining - once the rod begins to flow, keep laying the rod material on top of itself while bringing the flame in a little at a time.  Then, rather than pull the rod away, give it a quick twist.  (If you pull the rod away you may bring some of the desired deposit with it.

7.      Let repair air cool, wire brush excess flux off with warm water. Machine as needed.

      * The only thing you can do wrong with Alloy #1 is to overheat as described above.  Anytime the rod balls, or fluffs up it is due to overheating.