1. Clean repair area thoroughly with wire brush or emery cloth
(outer surface only on line work or tubing).
2.
Dip rod in liquid flux and spread generously over area to be repaired.
3.
Using either a small butane torch or a hand-held propane torch turned down a bit,
heat the entire repair area slowly and evenly (Or, you may heat the metal right
next to or underneath the repair area. This will allow indirect heat transfer to
take the rod off in hard to get at areas).
4.
Continue applying heat until flux begins to turn a root beer brown color.
***If you heat until flux turns black--cool the part down, wire brush the
blackened flux off, and start over.
5.
Once flux is root beer brown, let the rod gently touch the metal and work the tip
of the rod with your flame. Once the
rod begins to flow, apply heat sparingly.
Bring the flame in for a couple of counts-then take it away for one count.
Bring it in, sweep it slowly through the repair area, and take it away. You are simply adding heat as needed
to keep the rod flowing.--Or, you may want to "tin" the metal first by gently rubbing
the rod against the metal, leaving a thin silver sheen. This is all that is needed
to fill a pin hole. Remember the rod must always be touching the metal (without
pressing) as the heated metal is melting the rod.
You are not dripping the rod in from above.
6.
To build up the deposit for machining - once the rod begins to flow, keep laying
the rod material on top of itself while bringing the flame in a little at a time. Then, rather than pull the rod away,
give it a quick twist. (If you pull
the rod away you may bring some of the desired deposit with it.
7.
Let repair air cool, wire brush excess flux off with warm water. Machine as needed.
* The only thing you can do wrong with Alloy #1 is to overheat as
described above. Anytime the rod balls,
or fluffs up it is due to overheating.
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