1.      Using either a hand-held propane, or oxyacetylene torch (not butane) – roll the end of the rod through the center of flame until about 1/2" of the tip of the rod becomes shiny.

2.      Dip heated 1/2" of rod into powder flux and scoop slowly one time.  Jabbing and twisting can knock flux off rod.

3.      On thin aluminum, first apply flux.  Heat directly while rolling rod gently against aluminum until the flux melts off.  The torch tip should be about 1" away from the repair area.  Square the rod to the flame (about 90 degrees).

4.      On thicker aluminum, using oxyacetylene and a 3/4" carburizing flame, do some pre-heating before melting flux into the repair area.  Have rod fluxed and ready to go while pre-heating.

5.      On  a larger piece of thin aluminum such as an auto hood, use oxyacetylene and a small tip (0 or 1).  (Heat dissipates so quickly through aluminum that you will want to bring the local area up to temperature before the heat shoots out to the edges.)

6.      Once flux is melted off rod and into the repair area, take the rod away and heat fluxed aluminum until flux becomes watery (Not milky white - not grey..., but WATERY).  If flux does not become watery, or if the rod balls up, more of a heat source is needed (oxyacetylene).

7.      Once the flux becomes watery, bring the tip of the rod into the repair area.  Work only tip of rod with the flame.  Make sure tip of rod makes gentle contact with the aluminum.  Do not press or force rod.

8.      As rod begins to flow, continue working tip of rod with flame for a couple of counts, then take the flame away for a count or so.  Bring the flame back in for a couple counts - take it away...and so on until repair or fabrication is complete.  *Remember that each time you come back in with the flame, the rod must be gently touching aluminum.

9.      On larger jobs, add flux into the repair area as needed (rod will flow only where flux is liquid).