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Techniques for welding thicker, cast and magnesium aluminum
- see "Cast Aluminum".
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Start your practice on thin aluminum tubing. Poke as many holes as possible
in an 18" length of tubing. Repair half with propane, half with oxyacetylene.
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When using oxyacetylene with Super Alloy #5, wear dark glasses.
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When using oxyacetylene for thin aluminum repair or fabrication, use a small tip
("0" or "1") with a 3/4" carburizing flame. Pull blue flame out about 3/4"
with very little oxygen (hissing).
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On larger thin aluminum parts such as an auto hood or a boat, always use oxyacetylene. This enable you to get the local area up to flow temperature more quickly - before the heat can travel to outer edges. Just
turn oxygen up a little at a time
until the rod flows. Practice on a similar disposable part first.
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If the tip of the rod balls up upon touching the aluminum, it means more heat is
necessary.
Ø When doing lengthy fabrication, liquify 2 to 3 inches of flux
at a time, and flow in the
rod.
Continue this process to completion.
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If the flux is liquid and you are about to begin laying in the rod, but the phone
rings and you are called away - reactivate the flux by heating it upon your return.
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When welding thin aluminum next to thicker aluminum, the thicker part will steal
most of the heat, so heat the thicker part first, until a little flux liquifies
on it. Then, when you go after the thinner part, there will be no heat transfer.
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Because heat disapates so quickly through aluminum, move without hesitation from
one step to the next - melt the flux off the rod...heat until the flux liquifies...come
back in with the rod...come back in with heat...