Ø      Techniques for welding thicker, cast and magnesium aluminum - see  "Cast Aluminum".

Ø      Start your practice on thin aluminum tubing.  Poke as many holes as possible in an 18" length of tubing.  Repair half with propane, half with oxyacetylene.

Ø      When using oxyacetylene with Super Alloy #5, wear dark glasses.

Ø      When using oxyacetylene for thin aluminum repair or fabrication, use a small tip ("0" or "1") with a 3/4" carburizing flame.  Pull blue flame out about 3/4" with very little oxygen (hissing).

Ø      On larger thin aluminum parts such as an auto hood or a boat, always use oxyacetylene.  This enable you to get the local area up to flow temperature more quickly - before the heat can travel to outer edges.  Just turn oxygen up a little at a time until the rod flows.  Practice on a similar disposable part first.

Ø      If the tip of the rod balls up upon touching the aluminum, it means more heat is necessary.

Ø     When doing lengthy fabrication, liquify 2 to 3 inches of flux at a time, and flow in the rod.  Continue this process to completion.

Ø      If the flux is liquid and you are about to begin laying in the rod, but the phone rings and you are called away - reactivate the flux by heating it upon your return.

Ø      When welding thin aluminum next to thicker aluminum, the thicker part will steal most of the heat, so heat the thicker part first, until a little flux liquifies on it.  Then, when you go after the thinner part, there will be no heat transfer.

Ø      Because heat disapates so quickly through aluminum, move without hesitation from one step to the next - melt the flux off the rod...heat until the flux liquifies...come back in with the rod...come back in with heat...